[Pasifika Fashion Series] Kapiliola Fonua, New Zealand's next big talent!

Kapiliola Fonua is a young design student with a bright fashion design future ahead of him.  Of Tongan descent he moved to New Zealand from his native island of Tonga and drew inspiration from his early childhood there for this stunning piece.  Last week this beautiful piece he created was the overall winner of New Zealand Fashion Week's 'Remake Challenge'.

When I first initially seen his winning piece I was immediately floored by the intricate flower detailing of the bodice and the waterfall of petals of the hem.  The first image that jumped into my head was Azzedine Alaia's   Fall 2011 collection that was full of laser cut-outs and floor length waterfall ruffles.

Then I learned the dress was constructed of Kleenex Cottonelle tissues!?! The perplexing notion that he was able to create such refined and intricate detailing for the bodice and those cascading petals caused me to experience two things: 1. Complete and utter elation for the future of the art of fashion 2. Longing and want for more of this brilliant young man's talent.

Until young Kapi graduates I guess we all will just have to suffice with the opportunity to purchase his beautiful design (here) and eagerly wait in anticipation for the launch of his womenswear line.

*Photo Credit: trade me
Photos of Kapi's dress:

[Pasifika Fashion Series] Telesa Trilogy Fashion.... well done CSM style

A few months ago there was buzz on my twitter timeline about Pasifika author, Lani Wendt Young and her YA book series,  Telesa Trilogy ('Telesa: The Covenant Keeper', 'When Water Burns', 'The Bone Bearer').  So when it dawned on me 2 weeks ago that I needed to find a new book to read, I decided to look more into Lani's book series and little did I know that I would be heading down the path of becoming a Telesa enthusiast.

The first place I visited was her blog, Sleepless in Samoa, which is a daily chronicle to her life and her journey in writing her series.  I was captivated by her posts dedicated to character insights and analysis that before I knew it I was on Amazon.com ordering the 1st and 2nd book of her trilogy.  The really comical part was that I was so eager to receive my books that the day I received them I literally walked in the door to my condo, seen they had arrived, opened them up and sat down delved immediately into reading.

Reviewer, Ann Morgan, summarized so perfectly my experience while reading books one and two, "Lani has the knack of weaving traditions into the narrative without making their inclusion and explanation feel worthy or forced.  An enjoyable and engrossing book with a gripping story that whips the reader along.  The depiction of Leila's struggles with identity, sexuality and society's expectation will resonate with teens and ex-teens all over the world while its warm portrayal of Samoan culture gives it a character all its own."**

While becoming enthralled by Leila's story and her love for her soul mate & all around 'good boy', Daniel while at the same time discovering this new and unfamiliar and unwanted drawn attraction to 'bad boy' Keahi  I could not help but do what all of us do when we read.  I let my mind wander.  I began to create my visions for these characters and how they dressed, what fashions suit them best, and instantly I knew I had to do this post.  Not only for the mere fact of introducing to you a FANTASTIC new author that I am now a huge fan of but for the obvious; highlight the various fashions and ensembles I pictured the love triangle wearing.

To help give more of an established "face" to the three main characters Lani and her team have recruited the following models to represent each main character (although I do have to state for the record that they haven't officially "chosen" the Keahi character pictured):

Now having a visual of a face, character background from the books it was almost instantaneous that I put on my "stylist" hat and the following character inspiration boards were curated:

Products (Clockwise): Alexis Bittar Earrings/ Mena Strapless Dress/ Alexis Bittar cocktail ring/ Charlotte Olympia Heels/ Current Elliott Shorts/ TopShop Tooth Pendant/ASOS 'Love is the Answer' Tee/ Alaia Leather Cut-out Flat Sandals

Products (Clockwise): Ralph Lauren Polo/ Citizens of Humanity Denim/ Billy Reid for K-Swiss Sneakers/ Rugby by Ralph Lauren Dress shirt/ MOMO by Adi Koila Ganilau Shorts/ J. Crew Flip flops

Products (Clockwise): AllSaints Spitalfields Tee/ Rick Owens Beanie/ YSL Tuxedo Dress shirt/ YSL Classic Tuxedo/ YSL Patent Leather Shoes/ JBrand Denim/ Rick Owens Sneakers

I'd love to hear your feedback after reading book one and two as to whether I nailed it with the ensembles.  Trust me, you will be finished in less than a matter of a few days because that's just how spell bounding this story is.  I'm anxiously awaiting Lani's release of the 'The Bone Bearer' but rumor has it we might have to wait a little while longer because a novella of Daniel's version of the story is soon to be released first...


*Photo Credit of main characters: Sleepless in Samoa
**Reviewer Comments: Text from 'When Water Burns'

[Pasifika Fashion Series] Designer Spotlight-Hupfeld Hoerder

Designer, Hupfeld Hoerder pictured above with one of his models

Hupfeld Hoerder's designs are known for its signature hand prints of island motiffs and creatively merging authentic designs with contemporary.  He incorporates traditional with western fabrics to make his designs hold a strong sense of the Pacific and promotes the pasifika culture and traditions.

Hupfeld started designing whilst still completing his undergraduate studies at the University of the South Pacific almost 20 years ago.  Initially he started designing and making beach bags which eventually led to shift dresses and summer dresses.  Over the years and through experience he moved from casual resort wear to evening wear then found a niche market  in the Bridal industry in Fiji and Haute Couture.  Now he is focusing on taking another step to establish his brand overseas and to find other markets to sell his beautiful works of art.

Having shown at NYFW in 2009 and continuously showcasing successful collections at the World Fashion Week (WFW) in the Bahamas season after season, he is definitely a name to be on the look out for.  See the other installments in my Pasifika Fashion Series ( 4th: here 3rd: here 2nd: here 1st: here).

Check out some of my favorite pieces from his past collections that are on trend for Spring & Summer's bright and bold color palette:

[Pasifika Fashion Series] Fashion Forward Fibre Artist, Shona Tawhiao!

Fibre Artist & Fashion Designer, Shona Tawhiao

Shona Tawhiao is a fibre artist and designer trained in traditional Maori weaving techniques and methods.  Tawhiao designs and creates garments entirely made of native flax or Harakeke complete with matching accessories such as hats and shoes.  The key distinguishing factor between Tawhiao and other Pasifika Fashion Haute Couture designers is her strict use of native flax  to create her unique haute couture designs. Unlike other designers, Tawhiao mixes traditional Maori weaving skills with her eye for contemporary design. Tawhiao has exhibited extensively with her style of woven art, has produced TV sets for the Maori Television Service worked in art and costume departments for films 'Maori Merchant of Venice' and 'River Queen' among others. She has been producing award winning woven garments where she has developed techniques and designs that are unique to her aspirations of Maori culture and other indigenous nations.

Tawhiao's Haute Couture collection 'Te Whiri' under her label 'TAWHIAO' is inspired by her fascination with Japan’s Harajuku girls and is influence by her interest in Maori, Japanese and Roman warriors.

"My collection is inspired by traditional warrior wear, Samurai, Roman, the Masai, and Maori of course. It's totally military warrior woman meets marching girl. --Shona Tawhiao

She goes on further to state that, "Everything Japanese is inspirational to me. How an indigenous culture creates a subculture, I think is really cool. Maori don't have that yet."

Her pieces are definitely in a class of their own.  Her pure usage of flax is truly fashion forward and innovative in creating such great peplum shapes, distinct clean lines, and movement.  Tawhiao’s pieces flow with grace and dignity in a very similar fashion to the warriors that she draws so much inspiration.

*Photo Credit: Shona Tawhiao

Check out my favorite pieces from Shona's collections:

[Pasifika Fashion Series] Discover Fiji's Hidden Gem!

Fijian Fashion Designer, Adi Koila Ganilau (center) with models wearing pieces from her Summer Collection '11

Adi Koila Ganilau draws all of her inspiration from her home island, Fiji. With its vast contrasts of blues in the surrounding ocean, lush greens in the hills, and vibrant hues in its sandy beaches and coral reefs. It is no wonder that such a tropical landscape could make an impression in Koila’s custom print designs, which live up to traditional Fijian art style that is often large and bold in nature. You can also see influences from many countries in Koila’s designs, but her most influential inspiration is her grandmother, Adi Lady Litia Cakobau Lalabalavu Mara. “She”, Koila says speaking of her grandmother, “was head and shoulders above the rest”, and was truly the noblest of her time.

With such a poised and graceful example to direct her vision, Koila centres her womenswear line, Marama Dina, to the very woman who represents all that her grandmother embodied – class and style. Marama Dina literally translates to mean “true lady” or “real woman” and Koila proudly states that her clothing is for every woman of every size, shape, color, and ethnicity and for every occasion. With dresses, jumpsuits, tops and more and many pieces easily transitioning from day to night. Versatile Transition pieces is the key for Marama Dina.

Momo (which means “uncle”) is Koila’s menswear line, Rattoo (a play on the word “ratu” which refers to men of dignified stature) is her men’s streetwear line that caters to the younger hipster male market and Marama Lailai is her junior girls line. Four clothing lines may seem over-zealous, but Koila is quite the over-achiever and will not limit herself or her designs to one market.

All of Koila’s prints are custom drawn by herself as she has been drawing and painting since childhood and every print design is hand-printed onto various fabrics by her team. Her prints live up to the traditional Fijian art style that is often large and bold in nature. Every item of clothing in all of Koila’s lines are exclusively produced in Fiji in order to maintain the authenticity of their origin as well as ensure that each item of clothing can stand alone as a keepsake or piece of Fiji that every customer can obtain.

*Photo Credit: Adi Koila Ganilau

Check out some of my favorite pieces from her Summer 2011 Collection:

And this is my favorite piece hands down from Koila's Summer '11 collection.  The monochromatic palette, coupled with the amazing Fijian artwork and the added train just make such an emotional impact.  This is her defining piece in my opinion and I will be adding this to my closet!

[Pasifika Fashion] Innovative Pasifika Milliner, Lopeti Etu!

Fashion Designer & Milliner, Lopeti Etu

The signature touch to any ensemble is the accessory.  This vital piece can either reward you with rave reviews & approval or forever categorize you as a fashion victim (don’t believe me, just ask Kristen Wiig).  Many of us have a key accessory that we deem as our “go-to” to tell our fashion story.  For many, that final added piece to complete the look is a hat. For this next installment of my series highlighting innovative and ground breaking Pasifika fashion talent, I introduce to you, Lopeti Etu.

Lopeti Etu is an innovative fashion designer and milliner based in New York City who draws inspiration from the world around him. Etu hand blocks all his hats, and creates one of a kind pieces using local suppliers and craftspeople.

After having worked in the fashion industry for many years, Etu took a risk and started his own millinery label in 2010 with business partner, David Balluff. They aspire to bring daring and verve back into the New York millinery world.

Lopeti Etu first became introduced to hats and hatmaking when his grandfather made him a straw hat in his native Tonga for a school dance. Etu recalls that while most children were wearing store-bought hats, his grandfather's hand-woven creation made him happy. 

His millinery designs have appeared on the cover of French Vogue, and in editorial shoots for Elle, Bazaar, O, Glamour and Self. Several of Etu's hats also made an appearance on the first season of Bravo's Work of Art: The Next Great Artist, worn by contestant Nao Bustamante.

*Photo Credit: King Redman 

Check out some of my favorite pieces from Etu's Spring 2011 collection:

[Pasifika Fashion Series] When the Pasifika Culture Meets the Modern Day Fashion World!

"Pacific Couture" designer, Lindah Lepou

This is my first installment of a series of posts highlighting and discussing Pasifika Culture and Fashions.  Living in Chicago and having been involved with the fashion industry in some form or another for the last 10 years, this harsh reality has plaqued me for years: Pasifika Fashion has yet to hit mainstream.  Even after years of revolutionary strides in technology that affects fashion & world culture, there has yet to be a notable recognition of what Pasifika Fashion has contributed to the industry.  So, through my blog and this platform I am going to do my part in bringing more awareness to the monumental and impactful contributions Pasifika Culture has made and continues to make to the fashion world/industry.

Introducing, Lindah Lepou. Renaissance Woman Extraordinaire, Lindah Lepou is a full-time New Zealand artist of Samoan and Palangi (English/Scottish) descent, with a background in Performing Arts, Music, and Fashion. Not only does she work with some of New Zealand’s pioneers in music (Annie Crummer, Hellosailor, etc) as a Singer/Songwriter, Lindah has built a strong body of work that pays homage to her love of French Haute Couture and her own rich New Zealand and Pacific heritage. With this, she is instrumental in bringing pacific fashion out of the stereotypical shadows of grass skirts and aloha shirts, through her innovative use of raw materials and natural fibers (i.e. tapa cloth, flax, etc.) she also expresses in a modern way, under a term she coined herself called, “Pacific Couture”.

Today, she continues to inspire a new generation of designers in New Zealand and in the Pacific, who reference and use her work as a benchmark in New Zealand’s mainstream fashion institutions, while at the same time continues to be sought after by museums around the world.

“Some artists create art for a particular time and place, while I am more interested in creating art that transcends this time and space” Lindah Lepou

*Photo Credit: Lindah Lepou

Check out some of her amazing works of art!